Planning a TOUR DU MONT BLANC, August 2016
The TMB is an incredibly beautiful, approximately 106 mile trek through the Swiss, French and Italian alps around the massif Mont Blanc. The trail meanders through meadows, cow pastures, and small towns, and up steep slopes, rocks and scree, along narrow cliffs, past glaciers, and always within earshot of running rivers and streams. The trail is almost always out in the open, without trees, and covered with blueberry bushes. It was the most amazing, rigorous, challenging, yet fun, vacation I’ve ever taken.
Planning:
During the spring of 2016 my 2 adult children (both in their 20’s) and I decided to hike the TMB. I started the planning by reading every blog and trip report that I could find on the internet, and ordering the Cicerone book: Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete two-way trekking guide. aka “the bible”.
Fitness
One thing I quickly learned is that the TMB can be done in an enormous variety of ways by people with vastly different fitness levels. Since the trail dips into towns and crosses over ski areas, people can shorten the route by using road transportation to skip over segments, or can take ski lifts up or down steep segments. Even those that shun these short cuts and walk the entire loop can take different routes; there are variants on several sections of the trail.
These are some of the first decisions to make:
- Type of hike: guided tour, guided tour with mules, guided tour with packs driven ahead each night, self-guided (an itinerary is planned by a company and all accommodations booked by them, but you walk alone), or do it yourself.
- Accommodations: hotels/inns, hostels, refuges (huts), camping
- Route: counter clockwise (the vast majority of people), clockwise, shortcuts, variants
- Number of days on the trail
After reading exhaustively these were our choices:
Clockwise, 10 days, do-it-yourself, huts/inns.
Since we were going clockwise, we started and ended at Champex, Switzerland. We decided to go this way because we didn’t want to hike with large groups every day. As it worked out, when we left the huts in the mornings, everyone else would be heading out one way, and the 3 of us would be going the other way. We still saw a lot of folks on the trail, we just weren’t leap frogging them all day. We loved hiking clockwise, and starting in Champex allowed us to ease into the trip with a gentle first day.
Maps/guide book
We relied mostly on the Cicerone guide, but needed to consult our maps a few times. We brought the following two IGN 1:25,000 maps: 3630 OT Chamonix/Massif du Mont Blanc and 3531 ET St. Gervais-Les Bains / Massif du Mont Blanc. They are large and very detailed and each one covers half of the trail. Some people buy a smaller version with the entire trail on one, which would probably be sufficient.
Rifugio Elisabetta
Lodging
We decided to go in mid August and wanted to secure accommodations prior to buying plane tickets. This was tricky because we were staying in 10 different places, and due to the distance between them, each one depended on the other being available. It was like a house of cards, if one fell, the whole thing collapsed. We knew that lodging in Champex would be easy to secure, and that the refuges would be the most difficult.
I emailed the huts and inns, some in French and Italian! Some of the huts were still closed for the winter, and the caretakers took some time to respond. Eventually I had at least email confirmation from all of them. (this whole process took place over a couple of weeks in mid May) This made me slightly nervous, we didn’t want to show up at the end of a long day of hiking and not have a bed. However, it all worked out. I had a spread sheet with the places that I had booked, whether I had paid a deposit, the balance due, and whether I needed to pay the balance in cash or credit. All of the refuges requested cash, payable after dinner. Once the trail lodging was settled we booked the flights into Geneva.
Transportation
The Swiss train system is very efficient and we booked a train on their website from Cornavin station in Geneva, to Champex. It is booked as if it’s one train, but in actuality the journey is comprised of 3 trains and a bus. We didn’t book the train to Champex until shortly before our hike started, and we booked the return trip to Geneva the day before, once we completed the hike. It was a beautiful train ride.
Supplies:
Our packing list:
35-45L pack. Mine was 45L which gave me plenty of space.
Hiking clothes:
1 pair of lightweight pants
2 pairs shorts
3-4 pairs socks
3-4 underwear
2 short sleeved dry wick shirts
2 long sleeved dry wick shirts
Micro fleece
Soft shell jacket
Rain jacket
Rain pants
Hat
Baseball or sun hat
Gloves
boots
Hut/town clothes:
Light weight pants
Summer dress
T shirts
Something to sleep in
Flipflops
Toiletries:
Toothpaste
Body wash (that doubled as shampoo)
Hand sanitizer
Deodorant
Sunscreen
Toilet paper
Lip balm with SPF
Miscellaneous:
Sunglasses
Pack rain cover
Lots of plastic ziploc bags, various sizes
Sleeping bag liner (required at the huts)
map/guide book/compass
Headlamp, extra batteries
Swiss army knife
2 water bottles each
Book
Deck of cards
Loads of cash, Swiss francs and euros
Passport, bank card, credit card
phone/camera with charger
First aid kit with lots of ibuprofen!
Hiking poles (I used them, my kids didn’t)
Electrolyte tablets
Ear plugs/eye shade
Quick dry towel
Adaptor (I bought this one that worked in all three countries and all of us could charge our phones at once) https://www.amazon.com/Yubi-Power-Universal-Quad-Port-USB-Charged/dp/B00HVKR92Y
We were lucky in that we never needed our warmest clothing, or rain gear (except for 20 minutes of hail one day). I only wore pants for a few hours in the morning on one day. Most of the time we wore shorts and a short sleeved shirt. When we stopped for lunch we would add a layer.
The sun hat was essential, and our sunscreen was always easily accessible.
Snacks/food/water
We always had bags of trail mix, granola bars and cookies with us, and when we got into towns we bought cheese, salami or sausage, and bread for our lunches. Eating lunch outside overlooking the stunning scenery was such a pleasure! There were places along the way to buy food, too. There was also plenty of water on the trail, and we refilled our bottles every chance we got.
How to pack:
We used larger ziplock bags or zipped packing cubes for our clothes. I found it handy to have them segregated, especially because when arriving at the huts. I wanted to hurry to the showers, and I was able to grab the stuff that I needed without sifting through my pack. The refuges are very cramped and it’s hard to spread out, so organization is key.
I had separate bags for: clean hiking clothes, dirty hiking clothes, toiletries, night time stuff (this bag had everything that I would need after hiking, including my book, headlamp, lounging clothes/pjs, towel)
At the bottom of the pack I had the things I never used, like my soft shell jacket, and that I rarely used, like my rain gear.
For the flight over I bought a heavy duty pack duffle bag from EMS that my pack, boots and poles all fit into, which I checked. We each had a small carry on with Geneva clothes. These we were able to leave at the hotel where we began and ended our journey.
Laundry:
We hand washed stuff as needed, usually if we were in an inn or hotel where we had more room to hang it. Some refuges have clothes lines outside, and Bonatti actually had deep sinks for washing stuff and a drying room.
The day we stayed at Contamines we arrived early and found a laundromat right in the center of town, adjacent to a bar/restaurant that had an outdoor patio and wifi. We were able to wash everything and dry it while we were having a beer out front!
Refuges/huts:
We really enjoyed staying in the refuges, despite the lack of luxury. The camaraderie was wonderful, and we met people from all over the world. Also, it’s fun to start your day on the trail instead of in a town.
The hut routine: upon arrival you immediately remove your boots and grab a pair of crocs from the shared rack, then go in and check in. They assign you your bunks and tell you how things work. We would take a shower, set up our bunks, then head to the main dining room for beer and cards (or outside if it was warm enough) There were always a lot of people hanging around the dining area prior to dinner. They kick you out so they can set the dinner up, then you return and look for your assigned table. The food was OK, simple fare, but there was plenty. Breakfast was self serve, and usually just bread and jam, but there was always coffee and tea.
We lucked out and were always assigned to bunk rooms of 8 or fewer. Ear plugs and eye masks were very useful. Headlamps were handy for reading in bed, and for navigating to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
Refuge du Bonhomme
THE HIKE!
Day 1: Champex to Ferret 18 km, 650m up, 420m down
This was a perfect first day! The trail was gentle, and gave us time to get used to our packs. It didn’t have the grandeur of the scenery to come, but was still quite pretty. We stayed at Hotel Col de Fenetre.
Day 2: Ferret to Rifugio Bonatti 17 km, 1260m up, 825m down
Gorgeous day with a border crossing! Lots of varied terrain, incredible views, cows and streams. We crossed into Italy at the Grand Col Ferret, ate lunch at Rifugio Elena, enjoyed stunning scenery all day, and ended at Rifugio Bonatti. Bonatti is the newest of the refuges and was spacious, with beautiful views of the Grandes Jorasses. We had beers in the dining room with loads of other hikers, then a wonderful meal of soup, salad, quiche and dessert. The bunk rooms had plenty of room for our gear, with drawers and hooks for everyone! They gave us free coins for the showers, to ration the hot water, which ran out quickly.
Day 3: Bonatti to Courmayeur 12km, 120m up, 860m down
Beautiful start to the day, looking at the rising sun hitting the snowy Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc! It was the only morning that we started our hike wearing pants. We crossed through a cow pasture and were menaced by the dog that was herding the cows until he was whistled off by the cowherd. This path was stunning. Across from us were glacier covered peaks, and we could look backup the Val Ferret to where we crossed the border at the, and down the valley toward the Aiguille Noire and Mt Blanc. We hiked fairly level, only seeing 2 people, until we got to a promontory above Courmayeur. Hiking down we passed Rifugio Bertone, then passed a lot of day hikers, as well as TMB hikers. It was a hot descent. We arrived at the outskirts of Courmayeur and did a bit of road walking until we came to the center of town. Courmayeur is very upscale, and has lots of stores and restaurants. We stayed at the Hotel Bouton d’Or, which was very reasonably priced and luxurious. Our triple consisted of 2 bedrooms, a small common area and a huge bathroom. We washed a few items of clothing and hit the town.
Day 4: Courmayeur to Rifugio Elisabetta 18km, 1560m up, 460m down
A lot of elevation gain on this day! Breakfast at the hotel was wonderful. Then we walked through town to the TMB, which was at the base of a ski resort. The first stretch was steep and dusty and wooded (which was rare on this route) and partially under a lift. Some people avoid this part by riding the ski lift up, but we hiked.
After coming out of the trees the trail crosses through ski areas, one of which was serving lunch outside. Potable water was available, and bathrooms. The trail continued above the ski resort and came to a gorgeous meadow facing spectacular scenery, where we stopped to eat our picnic lunch. It continued up, through some rocky terrain, then around a steep cliff with a drop off and a view into the valley where we were heading. We descended for awhile, past a cow herder lounging on the roof of a dilapidated stone building, to a dirt road. We followed this road through a beautiful valley, and then ascended to Rifugio Elisabetta, perched above us adjacent to a glacier.
Elisabetta was very tightly packed and served dinner in 2 shifts. We ate at 8. We had to buy tokens, ostensibly for a hot shower, which ended up being glacially cold. The bathroom floor were covered in puddles and hair. However, the dining room was filled with happy hikers, and we sat with people from Sweden and Canada, all playing cards and drinking beer. Dinner was delicious risotto.
Day 5: Elisabetta to Croix du Bonhomme via Col des Fours 16 km, 1134 up, 949 down
This was my favorite day! We left Elisabetta and began a steady climb to the Col de la Seigne, the border with France. It was early, the light was beautiful, and we were surrounded by stunning scenery and marmots! They were everywhere. Stopped at the old customs house and took a look. Went over the border and then down into another pretty valley. Stopped by Refuge des Mottets and had crepes with eggs, ham and cheese and Oranginas at picnic tables outside. It was a perfect breakfast since Elisabetta served dry crackers.
We crossed the road and to begin the ascent of the Col de Fours. Passed a stone building that was billowing smoke and making cheese, which was open for tours and purchases. Wound up a dirt road for awhile and then into a magnificent valley ringed by a wall of mountains, one of which we had to go up and over! We followed a stream and it was quite beautiful. No people anywhere. Eventually it got steeper, then we faced a steep wall of black shale. Up we went, slowly but surely and ended up at the Col de Fours (2665 m/8743 ft). Gorgeous! We crossed a small snow field. Looked over to another snowfield and a herd of ibex were bounding down and around, they run like the wind! It was beautiful up there, we could see forever in all directions. We descended through more snow to the Refuge de Croix du Bonhomme. We got there at 4 and were first in line when they turned the showers on at 5. Plenty of hot water which is not always the case since it’s solar. This hut is at about 8015 ft! We had a room for 4 to ourselves and even so it was tight. The dining room was spacious and sunny. We were seated at a table that faced a western ridge and the sunset. The whole time we ate dinner there were ibex playing on the ridge top, locking horns and jumping around. It was very cool. Dinner was beef bourguignon and dessert was chocolate cake/cookies. The staff carries all of the ingredients up on their backs.
Day 6: Bonhomme to Contamines 13km, 40m up, 1316m down
It was wonderful starting our day at 8015 feet! Left fairly early on another gorgeous day for a downhill trek. About 20 mins into our day decided to eat a supplemental breakfast of leftover salami and cheese and bread overlooking a beautiful valley. Walked steeply downhill for hours. Stopped at Refuge de la Balme to refill our water. Walked steadily down, along a dirt road for a long time. My daughter had developed a bad cough and was flagging. In Contamines we stayed at the Ferme de Bon Papa which was an old farmhouse, in the center of town, that is now a B and B. We had a triple on the ground floor that was very nice. Went into town with our laundry and found a laundromat that had a bar/restaurant next door with a patio out front. Threw the clothes in and enjoyed the beer, snacks and wifi while they washed. 
Day 7: Contamines to Les Houches 16km, 633 up, 646 down
Breakfast at La Ferme de Bon Papa was fabulous! It was a great place to stay. We picked up the trail almost across the street, down by a river.
We decided to take the low route to Les Houches since my daughter was still sick. The trail crossed through some cute towns, and joined the TMB at a ski resort. It went straight down into Les Houches from there. We stayed at Hotel les Melezes.
Day 8: Les Houches to Refuge la Flegere 17km, 1546m up, 772m down
Another big uphill day, 5072 vertical feet gained! But it was a beauty, with stunning scenery the entire day. Walked through town and up into the woods. Went steeply uphill for hours. Came out of the woods into a rocky area, then had to hike up the cliff face, holding onto metal railings! Kept going up steeply while watching paragliders float by over Chamonix. Hiked straight up for about 4 hours, then came to Refuge de Bellachat. Glorious setting! The deck seemed to hang over a valley, facing glacier clad rocky peaks. They only had water for sale, so we bought a few liters. Ate our picnic lunch just above the refuge, stupendous scenery, as usual. Kept going up a rocky trail to Brevent. Very interesting, rocky terrain with amazing views. There were a lot of people on the trail due to a cable car that went to the top. Lots of ibex too. Had to descend a couple of ladders. Kept going down to the Plan Praz cable car station/restaurant where there were bathrooms and water. We could see Refuge les Flegere in the distance but knew it would take a while to arrive. Fairly level balcony path (lots of blueberries, as usual). Steep stairs/ladder at the end. Arrived at Flegere and lots of people were hanging around outside. Got assigned to an odd alcove of 5 beds, connected to other alcoves. The place was wooden and looked ancient.
The showers were good.
At dinner sat with an Israeli girl and her brother, a NY fashion photographer’s assistant who was traveling solo,, and a chatty older guy who walks all over the world alone. Food was good, main course was potatoes covered in cheese.
Day 9: Flegere to Triente 19km, 1217 up, 1802 down
Breakfast was croissants! And toast! So good. Started fairly early, all alone as usual. Our first couple of hours were magical, the sun was low, the scenery was incredible and we were all alone. We walked along an amazing balcony path that rose to our left and the tall, glacier clad mountains were to our right. As always, we could hear water flowing. There were loads of ibex dashing down the hills all around us. We walked by an intersection at the Tete aux Vents, then started going steeply downhill, in zigs and zags. Tons of people were coming up, panting in the heat. We got down to the road, got lost for a bit, then found the trail in the woods. Had to go straight uphill the mirror image of what we had just come down, except it was mostly wooded. Ate lunch in the woods for the only time.
Came out in a rocky area (loads more berries) and went up tons of stairs. Hit the crest of L’Aiguillette des Posettes, which has an amazing panorama. Walked across the ridge, and then down into a large bowl. Could hear thunder in the distance. Walked straight up again to the Swiss/Italian border at the Col de Balme and stopped for a drink at the Refuge du Col de Balme. It suddenly got cold and started hailing right as we began our descent. Welcome to Switzerland! Fortunately it only hailed for 20 mins or so. We went straight down for about 2 hours.
Got down to the little town of Triente and found our Auberge. Just like a hut except we had a triple room, typical bunk room with very little space. The showers and bathrooms were nice. Dinner was cheese melted on potatoes. It was a pleasant night and we knew we were almost done!
Day 10: Triente to Champex 17km, 929m up, 742m down 
Our final day! We spent the early morning obsessing about the forecast. We really wanted to hike the high variant, but it was forecast to rain and all reports indicate that this is a hike that shouldn’t be done in the rain. So we reluctantly chose to hike the Alp Bovine route, which was pretty and pleasant. We left town and hiked up through some woods, then came to a valley clearing that was quite lovely. The path went gently down to a farmhouse, settled alone in the bowl shaped valley, that had picnic tables in the sun and fresh baked tarts. Of course we indulged and they were fabulous. The trail descended steeply to a river, where we ate our final trail lunch with our feet in the icy water. The trail meandered through some woods, then through a village. The weather looked ominous but the rain held off (at least at this level) until we completed the TMB and arrived at our hotel! Finished!
We had a celebratory meal at the Ptarmigan restaurant across from the lake. We ran into our Canadian friends from Elisabetta and they joined us for a beer.
Conclusion:
If you are considering hiking the TMB, DO IT! It is truly the experience of a lifetime.
If you have any questions for me, feel free to contact me at kerraug@gmail.com.
